Solo PCT Hike Mexico-Oregon 1993 p2of7
Day 45, Sun 5.16 Got a late start, dropped off by Janie at Interstate 15 about 4 PM.  Janie picked some seeds from a sweet broom plant near the underpass to plant in her rose garden.  Walking into the broad curving tunnel was cool and mysterious, since the outlet at the other end was not visible.  A shallow stream braided the concrete floor, similar to pattern seen in desert near Anza.  A large log was lodged there washed in by a prior flood.  PCT guide recommended sleeping on inclined plane with feet elevated to help circulation, but doesn't work for me -- breathing clogs up.  I agree completely with the book's concept of  stealth camping  and rising early in the morning.  Only problem with an early start is I'm not strong enough for such long summer days, but feet will improve.  Tried lashing Thermarest to outside of pack, instead of carrying it under top flap, but I don't like bold visible colors or lumpy profile.  Got a better flashlight without a central blind spot.  Abandoned pile jacket to reduce weight.  Requested birth certificate from Julie to get passport, maybe for India later.
Day 46, Mon 5.17 On crest of range south of Wrightwood.  No shade most of day, no breeze.  About 30 ticks, none dug in too far.  No water on ridge, ran out of reserve in afternoon.  Descended to Sheep Creek but it was dry.  However, I held my breath and listened for water.  Heard and located a faint trickle 50 feet upstream.  Have enough now to get to Guffy Camp without having to go down to Wrightwood.  Heard sharp reports like gunfire or rock slides from San Gabriel mountains. while on southern face.  Worked on solutions to Rubik's Cube at rest stops, when not swatting flies.  Not too hungry for U.J. stuff -- ate 1/2 bowl plus an apple.  Tomorrow may try just plain rice with flavoring.
Day 47, Tue 5-18 am: 2 ticks got me after all leaving welts about 1 cm. The first tick near Campo left a darker circular spot after I applied snakebite suction.  Assuming 1% of ticks carry Lyme disease, the probability that I was not exposed in 10 tick bites is (.99)**10 [or about 90%].  Another worry: the two-year earache (tooth ache?) seems to be coming back.  My hope is that if my body gets back in shape by losing fat and triglycerides, these symptoms will vanish as happened on '90 Whitney hike.  Wearing long gray cotton pants today as tick defense.  Weather cooler, may snow today.  pm:  Another lonely day -- when is the wave of hikers supposed to overtake me?  Snow at 8500, took some parallel fire roads to avoid snow covered trails.  Still feel shaken by San Jacinto. Eerie to walk through an abandoned ski lift without any people around, only idle machinery.  2 qt accordion water carrier was punctured by a cactus thorn. Band aids don't stop leak completely.  Solved first Rubik's cube without help from Jim Nourse booklet (Dover Books 1981).  Helps to break the monotony and think about something besides physical pain.
Day 48, Wed 5.19 Tried to climb Mt. Baden-Powell in spite of fears about snow. Even sharpened the point of a stick to improvise an ice ax, but on finding a series of snow traverses of increasing length at only 7400', with still 2000' to summit, went around.  Could have bought an ice ax at REI but did not want to carry the weight.  Therefore plan a snow free itinerary, if possible.  But even the Highway 2 had some snow patches on it.  The road crew has not cleared all of the pass yet.  Saw an snow blower idled by with a pin sheared by hidden rocks; the driver was sitting in the cab eating a sandwich. Toothache continues, will try to ignore it until reach Agua Dulce, otherwise I'll be trapped in LA forever!  Smog very thick down in LA direction but up here the air and skies very clear.  Saw Brian and Scott's sneaker footprints after Baden-Powell, at least a couple of days old.  Heard about "instep" crampons, less weight.  Estimate I did about 20 miles, result of starting early before dawn and walking flat pavement.  Saw a snow bridge over a creek that was covered with rocks, surprising how much weight it bore.  Water was dripping from it.  Sometime in the next few days or hours it will collapse. Also thinking about fractal geometry of nature and what Mandelbrot equations could recreate these patterns.  The random distribution of rocks and rock shapes scattered over a bumpy surface has its own equations.  Random is not the same as uniform; I've noticed that nature is often clumpy.  Add to that the complex reflections of a stream of water.  As a silly protest against entropy which dooms the universe in time, I placed a few rocks on top of a huge boulder sitting in the middle of Highway 2, to create a giant duck, but since it meant next to nothing, only that someone was there, the net gain in universal order is questionable.  A road might be considered unnatural, but if there are enough roads, then roads are part of nature too, with their own probability distribution functions.  In the food department: U.J. beans with taco sauce was OK for lunch.  Felt full enough on small portions.  Wish I could have a cookless kitchen, such as cashews and gorp; would save the weight and bother of stove and fuel.  Today I boiled 1/2 qt. water, then used some for chamomile tea and the remainder to warm rehydrated U.J. meal in Lexan container.  By not cooking food in the pot, only boiling the water, no need to clean pot.  Never want to cook at night, because 1) too tired 2) attract bears. Have flashlight, whistle and hefty canister of 1% CN and 1% OC for bear defense, but best defense is stealth camping where bears are not looking for people.  The last place I would ever camp would be a designated campground.
Day 49, Thu 5.20 A few clouds in afternoon.  Have decided to give up on Uncle John's foods after vomiting today's lunch, it was so bad.  Instead will go stoveless.  Rely on cheese, bread, crackers, power bars, nuts, peanuts, dried fruit.  Will mail stove stuff back to Janie from Agua Dulce.
Day 50, Fri 5.21, New Moon. Camped early 5:15 pm after only 15 miles due to aching feet, still my weakest link.  Have fasted 24 hours now but feel energetic.  May try to cook an U.J. meal later if feel up to it.  Imagine having real edible food such as crackers and cheese.  Appetite is a healthy sign.  Still have rolls of fat, still embarrassed to be seen without a shirt, but it is gradually melting away.  Toothache is worrisome but do not want to detour to Acton, will wait till Mojave.  That way, if there is a delay until a crown is made, assuming worst case of a cracked tooth like two years ago, I can return after Stanford visit.  Hunger today made me irritable -- a bicycle rider passed me on summit of Mt. Pacifico -- I made way for him, but shortly afterwards remembered that bikers were not supposed to ride on PCT.  So I fumed about it all the way to Mill Creek ranger station and reported it to blank indifference. Now I'm irritated at USFS which was not much interested in my complaints.  I reported the major washout at Deep Creek.  The agent said it was out of his jurisdiction.  I persisted until he wrote the coordinates down on a pad, maybe it will help [note: on passing thru the following year, nothing had been done about the washout except for posting some warning signs which of course I ignored.  The second time I just climbed down the cliff face to get around the washout instead of exiting the canyon cross country].  No maps at ranger station.  No PCT register.  The station is hidden from the road, not easy to find. 
Two issues on my mind since meeting Scott: 1) Weight of backpack.  What could I really do without? Tent? Thermarest? Boots? Stove & fuel?  Would like to have an lightweight pack no larger than a day pack.  15 lbs + 20 lbs food = 35 lbs max for 10 days.  2) The style or excess speed of this hike.  What if my goal were not to hike to Oregon, but only to exercise and meditate.  Would I ever stop for a day or longer in one place? (town breaks don't count).  Will forward motion never stop?  It is only when I stop moving that the blur of my surroundings comes into focus.  I may fault 17+mile/day kids for tearing past but now I am myself pushing something like 15 miles a day.  It seems too much of a rush.  Someone wrote that we hike to see mountains, forests and plains, but miss seeing ourselves.  It reminds me of the poem by Ryokan, whose simple belongings were stolen one day from his hermitage:  He wrote, "The thief left it behind -- the moon at the window."
Day 51, Sat 5.22 Hundreds of fragrant yellow Spanish Broom blossoms on Santa Clara Divide road near North Fork Saddle ranger station.  Glad I took the road instead of the trail.  Roads are attractive in their own right if not busy with traffic.  I like the open space, gentle grades and freedom from hazards of falling, snakes, etc.  No map or register at ranger station, but learned that the Spanish couple [Ad and Trudi] came three days ago and that they also went around Mt.Baden-Powell.  Scott Williamson and one other hiker came through yesterday -- I have only slipped one day in 10 off their pace, not too shabby [By the time I reached Oregon, however, Scott was nearly to Canada].  Gave away most of Coleman white gas to a day camper, preparing to unload my stove weight.  Reached Janie by collect call from ranger office phone.  She has procrastinated in sending Agua Dulce drop, it may or may not arrive Monday.  I would like not to depend on anyone anymore for mail drops.  Except for those power bars, I am nearly independent now, having given up on truly awful Uncle John dehydrated stuff (kiss $500 goodbye).  Asked Janie to contact John Mulligan at Stanford to confirm his mailing address and my reimbursement for a round-trip bus ticket.  Will call everyone tomorrow from Soledad Canyon road.  Buried large OC canister in soft white sandy soil, tired of lugging it around and fearing bear attacks, still have the small can.  Ask Julie for aluminum box containing birth certificate.
The more I think about it, the more attractive the idea of freeing myself from dependence on mail drops.  This hike is taking on characteristics of work, as a goal-oriented activity.  What I am looking for is a mood of timelessness, an inner freedom within a structured context (maybe I would also like to soften the external structure too).  What to do about the power bars?  My freedom is worth sacrificing a few power bars.
Day 52, Sun 5.23 Looking for a phone in RV camp in Soledad canyon, met a couple who invited me in for coffee, then offered me a breakfast of toast and eggs, bless them.  A little kindness goes a long way.  Pictures of grandchildren lined the walls of the trailer ($60K new, paid 36K 5 years ago, would sell for 20K now to move to Tampa).  Next home I buy, if I buy, could be a trailer.  Phoned Janie and arranged a drop in Mojave.  No response yet from Stanford.  Hike from Soledad Canyon over to Vasquez Park near Agua Dulce was a rapid power walk passing through an interesting tunnel.  The reason for my haste was a hankering to get to a phone to request one more trivial item, a pair of yellow Velcro tie straps.  Vasquez State Park on a Sunday afternoon was swarming with local visitors, most with kids, come to see the Flintstone facades erected for a movie to be filmed there.  Strangely there were no food concessions.  What kind of social gathering does not have snacks and drinks?  Post office was closed.  Decided to wait until 10 am tomorrow so that I can ship back the stove and other stuff.  Found a concealed spot in a vacant lot near the post office.  Tan tent color matches golden grass weeds perfectly.  Ate, drank and read a couple of magazines to spend the afternoon. Not really interested in the news or even new scientific discoveries, just passing the time.  Looked at a 5 lb cheese in the market, it was enormous. Probably 1/2 lb per day would be enough with other foods.
Day 53, Mon 5.24  Journal of first 52 days was written on margins and over maps of PCT guidebook to save weight of paper.  However, my trail may depart from PCT after Walker Pass.  It was very good to hear from Jose, letter of 5/10 from Three Rivers probation center.  I don't know why he is there.  I replied to the address he gave and included a Backpacker magazine which Julie had sent to Agua Dulce.  Today is first day without stove and it's working out.  Weight is less and food tastes better.  I bought seven chunks of Monterrey Jack cheese at 1/2 lb each, assorted crackers, toasted corn tortillas, cashews, walnuts, and a box of Petit Eclair chocolate-covered cookies, and Crystal Light lemonade (wanted grapefruit flavor -- Janie's drop mailed too late last Thursday did not arrive -- but hey no problem!  I'm not going to depend on drops any more.)  Shaved my beard in supermarket bathroom, facilities are available if you look for them.  Camp tonight beyond Sierra   Leone crest is sheltered from wind by a ridge, has a pretty view of Bouquet reservoir below.  Cheered me up to see messages of encouragement from Ad and Trudi, Scott Carpenter, and Brian and Scott (only one day ahead and complaining).  Even found an entry by Joseph Semprevio who has changed his plans about hiking Inyo, intends instead to hike up coastal range back to hometown S.F., does not want any more snow.  Amen to that.  Letter from Larry Hill asking me to contact a patent attorney about DOTS at ANL, forgot to call, may call from Green Valley or Mojave [never did].  No news about John Mulligan at Stanford.  Last shower was 9 days ago, really smell, but thanks to Odor Eater not totally unbearable.  Sprained left knee near summit of Sierra Leone.
Day 54, Tue 5.25 Unusual day.  Rained last night, thick fog in morning, bushes drenched with water.  Trail headed south, not north as expected.  After one mile I had doubts and backtracked to camp.  Tried another direction, a bike trail, no good. Tried another hidden overgrown trail in correct direction, but after 1/4 mile it contoured to east, and dripping with dew I returned to camp again.  Then tried to go uphill but too steep for lame leg.  Resigned, took the wide trail going the wrong direction in theory, but going somewhere.  Later south of Bouquet reservoir, I broke through a wall of bushes to get down to a road heading north.  It was early afternoon before I finally reached the lake.  Green Valley is a pretty town but with more horses and dogs than community facilities.  Must be one of these California bedroom communities like Snow Creek.  Hope leg is not too stiff tomorrow.  First time it has popped on trip.  Note: need better gear for rain, such as a Gore Tex wind shell, and synthetic fast-drying pants and tank top.  A boy walking away from the small store in Green Valley, in parallel with me, asked me if I was hiking to Oregon "to see if I could do it?"  I agreed yes, but on thinking it over, I should have said,"No, I already believe I can do it.  I just want to see what it is like.  I want to see mountains, not images on TV."  But that is not accurate either.  While hiking an exterior trail, I am hiking an inward trail to self knowledge.  I would like to know who I am, whether I really exist like a solid mountain, and I am curious how my body will change after months of this kind of exercise.
Day 55, Wed 5.26. Waited at Francisquito ranger station for 1.5 hours only to learn they didn't have current information about new trail through Tehachapi mountains after all.  Seems construction is not finished yet, in spite of golden spike ceremony held in Soledad Canyon recently on 6/5/93 to celebrate nominal "completion" of PCT.  Therefore will follow Los Angeles Aqueduct as mapped in old guidebook.  Left leg stiff and hurting, let right leg do most of work.  Ended day's hike early at a pleasant grassy tree plantation.  Not hungry any more thanks to ample supplies of cheese and crackers.  Uncle John was good for weight loss in that respect, to say something good about it. Same cheese getting boring, next time get more variety. Saltines too friable and dry, tostada casera (flat toasted corn tortillas) too hard.  Best are Ritz and Doritos.  Haven't even sampled walnuts or almonds yet. Seen no one all day, no hikers since Big Bear Lake.  Lonely trail.
Day 56, Thu 5.27 Two miles north of Three Points, near mouth opening onto the high desert.  Left leg much better.  Chose dirt roads over hillside trails where possible to avoid tics and enjoy broad views, except one stretch to get water. Descent into Three Points was too long, seemed as if road was laid out for a future housing development, winding back and forth down hillside.  Disappointed to find cafe boarded up.  My impression is that many small towns are empty shells without social life or community spirit.  Other cultures in crowded countries like India are not like this.  Neighbors visit neighbors, people walk and talk outside.  American homes are like island states or medieval castles.  Then there are the mobile home communities restricted to residents of a certain class such as over age 50.  Tomorrow, finally, the awesome Mojave desert.  After all this western detour to go around most of it, it may turn out to be like my backyard in Tucson, no big deal.
Day 57, Fri 5.28 noon: North of LA Aqueduct water hole 1953+00.  Raised tent to block midday sun and rest legs.  Neither leg is 100%.  Left leg is functional for walking but stiff, swollen at knee where something tore.  Lanced a deep 1/4" hole in outside of right heel to excavate a deep water blister.  With tent rain fly on, ventilation is not good but occasional breezes help. Day started chilly but now the brilliant glare of white sand pains the eye.  This is high desert, meaning above 3000'.  Imagine how hot "low" desert would be.  Tucson where I used to live and work in the Sonora Desert was also about 3000'.  Hoping to see someone come by -- day after day of loneliness.  Whatever I do after this should be connected with other people, even if it is to sit in a monastery [sigh, this was not to be].  Personal body weight seems to be stabilizing, with a little fat still remaining in loose stomach folds.  1/2 lb of cheese per day is too much because it spoils after a few days in this heat without refrigeration.  pm: Small canyon in mini-badlands.  Was successful in dipping water from the LA aqueduct but it was scary.  I laid flat on my stomach and reached down thru the hatch with a firm grip on my REI mug.  The unseen water below was roaring past with surging waves.  My cup would not reach the wave troughs but then the wave crests would splash 2/3 of the cup out.  The scary part was the thought of something striking my arm or ripping the mug from my hand.  Had planned to continue hiking into the cool of early evening but lost desire to push on when sun went down.  Tomorrow may rest again at midday but will try to rig an awning instead of smothering in the tent.
Thinking over Pros and Cons about possible future plans:
1.  Stop making future plans. "Therefore take no thought for the morrow..."    Pro: Focus on the present moment.  Con: Impossible to walk all day without planning.

2.  Buy a Toyota pickup and a small trailer in a quiet park in Albuquerque. Get a job there as a telephone installer or something 9 to 5.    Pro: Security of having a permanent address, a paid-for home, freedom from debt, live a normal life with friends and have interests outside of work.  Could do programming at night.    Con: Give up hope of attaining enlightenment in the traditional way.  Commit remaining savings.  Physical possessions do not protect against loneliness, eventual old age, disease and death.

3.  Become a certified yoga instructor at Satchidananda Ashram in Buckingham,  Virginia.  Rejoin the IYI family.    Pro: Be a member of a community, learn and teach something useful (Hatha Yoga).    Con: Tried it before for four years and never really felt like an insider.  At age 50 would feel positively ancient next to students in their twenties, the age group most attracted to yoga.  Expensive.  The Integral Yoga way is not focused on meditation practice alone, the limb of yoga that interests me the most.  I'd feel silly wearing white cotton pajamas, and I do not want to preach what I do not understand.

4.  Enroll in Roshi's Zen center in Jemez Springs, New Mexico (or LA)    Pro: Be a member of an older group, strive to attain enlightenment, face the issues of old age, death and the suffering of duality.  Does not commit savings yet.    Con: Zen practice is austere, anti-intellectual and cultish.  The Rinzai sect whacks people with wooden laths. Shaved heads a turnoff.  Did I feel like a member of the group there last time?  Nope (but then I was a newcomer). 

5.  At least go to Albuquerque, talk to Hosen, take a closer look.    Pro: Does not commit savings.  Con: Nothing wrong with asking advice, but cannot sit on the fence forever.

6.  Go to India to study Hatha yoga.    Pro: Interesting adventure.    Con: Sooner or later would have to face problem of being a stranger in a foreign land.  Dropping out of my culture to become a sannyasin too extreme to consider seriously at present.

7.  Find a cheap place to live in Mexico on income from $38K at 7% = $222/month. Pro: Then what?  Computer programmer, study Windows NT.  Con: Then what?  Friends?  Cannot buy friends.  Work doesn't fill emptiness any more, that is why I am here today.

8.  Drift like a vagabond from town to town, reading books in libraries, working odd jobs washing dishes, like Larry in Razor's Edge.   Pro: No commitments, gainful employment.    Con: Futile to live without a mission.  Have nothing in common with other homeless people [???].  Unsafe, dirty, depressing.  [Wilderness homelessness is very different from urban homelessness.]

9.  Apply for work as a member of a research group at Stanford.    Pro: Income, group membership, security, health insurance, contribute to scientific knowledge.    Con: Asking too much of work to provide social rewards too.  I have already experienced intellectual work.  It is not enough.  Life is passing by.

10.  Buy land and build a home with Jose.     Pro: An old dream.   Con: Too many uncertainties, especially Jose.  Trailer home or one room all the space I need.

11.  Become a high school science teacher in Albuquerque.     Pro: Personal satisfaction of helping others.     Con: Sometimes doubt whether my help would make a difference.  Who needs me?  What teachers do I remember that I want to imitate?  Contact with a youth generation that is vibrant but self-centered invites disappointment if there is any egoistic expectation of reward.

12. Become a career guidance counselor, a mentor to the world, dedicate my life to the welfare of all beings in the ultimate Bodhisattva sense.  Pro: Can't top this one.  Con: Don't see how to get there from here [nevertheless, daily opportunities to help others do arise].

The plans most interesting to me at this time are Albuquerque, or temporary residence in a foreign country where costs are low, such as Mexico, India, Philippines, Malaysia, Thailand, Australia, Sri Lanka, Canada.  South America no, Europe no, Africa no, South Sea islands probably no, Japan maybe if employed to cover cost of living. 

Day 58, Sat 5.29 In a canyon wash sheltered from wind.  Old 22-rifle targets scattered around.  Earlier today near Flying Witch Ranch managed to get water from the aqueduct too far to reach by hand.  Tried several ideas, imagining that I was taking an IQ test administered by an alien intelligence, like Captain Kirk's test in the Star Trek episode.  This worked: a tree limb, actually a desert bush -- there are no real trees here -- stiff enough to resist the rushing current (tent pole too flimsy), with green REI mug bound tightly to it by red cord, made a dipper.  Dropping water bottle down test hole did not work even when weighted with rocks.  A problem not solved: MSR water filter would not draw water into its compression chamber.  Spent at least an hour in hot sun taking it apart.  No Vaseline available so used antibiotic ointment to seal O rings, maybe not viscous enough.  Problem seems to be air is pulled into chamber via piston O-ring or else via bad seal in top of canister [Later I found out the real problem was the small ball jamming the intake valve by surface attraction.  Solution was to tilt filter so that the ball would drop down away from the intake valve].  Finally gave up and drank the aqueduct water unfiltered even though it had a brackish smell and small particles suspended in it [this was where I contracted giardia which developed 10 days later].  It seems that every idea connected with the stock broker, including this water filter,  has turned out bad.  Loss on biotech stock sale still rankles, and the crampons which required buying crampon-compatible boots were costly mistakes. Maybe should also reconsider the dubious idea of hiking Inyo mountains, also his suggestion.  Today was a long grind but not too bad really. Even midday heat was not as hot as Tucson.  My thoughts keep returning to post-hike scenarios.  Trying not to think about visiting Stanford on reaching Mojave, because I have a feeling something is screwed up about it just because I want to do it, such as late floppy disks with my vital programs (did Julie send them first class?) or Mulligan out of town.  This Stanford thing was supposed to be a welcome break but now that I'm getting into this hike I'd just as soon skip the "interruption" and concentrate on reaching Oregon.  Food is on schedule, pack getting very light, but cheese seven days in a row is monotonous and melted.  Anything beats Uncle John though.  Nuts are munchable but dryness does not satisfy like soft food.  No power bars because Janie did not send last drop in time.  Put tent cover on tonight to help steady tent and block waxing moonlight.  To me, a solo hiker, a tent is worth its weight, because of the feeling of security of being enclosed in comfortable, familiar surroundings after a stressful day [my opinion on this would change later].  Expect to be in Mojave tomorrow for lunch, then check into a motel, first shave, shower and bed in two weeks. Toothache comes and goes, just ignore it.

Day 59, Sun 5.30 Day 60, Mon 5.31 ...  Day 64, Fri 6.4, Full Moon ...  Day 72, Sat 5.12 Two week Stanford break.  Reached Mojave as expected around lunchtime on Sunday, 5.30.  Stayed two days in Motel 6 because Monday was a holiday, Memorial Day.  Took Amtrak to Stanford (bus to Bakersfield, train to Stockton, bus to San Jose).  John Mulligan met me in San Jose.  Computer disks arrived on time.  I spent next 9 days adapting my DOTS image analysis program to the Stanford yeast genome project, not 3 or 5 as expected.  Fixed the design problems which could not be changed at Argonne when output format was frozen by links to other software. Probably made it better than necessary.  Monetary compensation was not my main motive although three day's pay at $250/per was much appreciated plus ego gratifying.  I paid for my $75 round trip bus ticket out of this honorarium.  My motive was to make my program better.  At the same time, I was observing myself in a working environment, asking myself which was better, working or walking?  During the work I became obsessive about it, walking to campus early about 6:30 am and working into the evening as late as 10 pm, taking only a few walking breaks.  The respite was good for my left knee but I did not have time to attend to personal business such as the toothache problem, in fact forgot all about it.  Bought two black nylon Nike running shorts to replace oversize cotton shorts, but did not have time to get a synthetic tank top or a warmer rain-resistant shell jacket.  Maybe I use work as an excuse to postpone dealing with other facets of life.  On the whole, I conclude by the Stanford experiment that I should avoid going back to programming work.  Been there, done that.  As I write these notes in the wilderness I am conscious of unbounded space and time around me, missing at Stanford. 

I stayed in the front bedroom of a small two-bedroom house rented by John and Phillipa (Pip) Mulligan, and their two large black dogs Megan and Friend.  They were friendly hosts but I felt awkward about staying longer than planned and disturbing them, even though it was John's project that needed my program.  In the early morning, sometimes I would use my Lexan 1-qt bottle instead of disturbing them by walking past their bedroom to the single bathroom. In time I suppose I will forget which bottle I used, at least I hope I do.  I also bought a 1-1/4 qt container to replace the punctured accordion bottle, but the mouth was too small for the MSR filter.

[Ed note (by JWJ, 4/21/2010 Alpine Texas): There is a description of my Stanford visit in the Fall 2009 Benefactors publication.  It describes how I "circled back" to make a donation to Stanford in later years.]

On the Amtrak bus and train trip back to Mojave, I sat next to a 15-year old, Andrew Hall, who was carrying a civil war musket down to a friend's house for a week of target practice.  It was impressive how he had earned and spent one thousand dollars of his own money on his hobby of civil war reenactments.  He is also an athlete with a swimmer's broad chest. It has been years since I had a conversation with someone from his age group outside of my family, and it was a refreshing change to talk about something besides philosophy with someone still optimistic about life.  We competed in holding our breaths -- I managed a personal best of one minute and 20 seconds, while he achieved a new personal best of two minutes, 5 seconds.  He gave me a souvenir of a handmade lead bullet which I enclosed in the box of personal effects returned to Janie from Mojave. 

The bus from Bakersfield arrived in Mojave in time for me to pick up Friday mail before the post office closed, so I did not have to layover a weekend as feared.  I will carry the books that I brought and read them on the trail (Travel Essays by Michael Crichton, Colin Fletcher's book about his California hike, and the adventures of Japanese monk Kawaguchi incognito in Tibet for three years).

The continuing pain in my left knee puzzles me.  Would have expected complete recovery by now.  Cannot do 15 miles/day in present condition, especially on rising terrain.  Phebitis symptoms are recurring, concentrated in surface vein at inside of left knee.  Taking aspirin to reduce inflammation and clotting, about six tablets per day.  Toothache continues -- what worries me about it is that it seems to be located at tooth which already has a crown on it.  Could these pains be psychosomatic?  Including right ear ache now more than two years running.  Well just keep on trucking.  Hope for end of pain eventually.  Some problems do go away if ignored long enough.

Day 73, Sun 6.13 This afternoon I reached a small gas station and store after a long dry walk from Mojave.  While I was sitting on one of the chairs lined up outside the door in the shade of the porch, leisurely chugging down a quart of cold grapefruit juice, a motorcycle gang pulled up.  The paleface girls seemed to notice the fearsome scars on my muscular tanned legs.  I didn't say much, just sat there like Gary Cooper, strong and silent, soaking up admiration or so I imagined.  I would have gladly obliged with an autograph had I been asked.

Another physical concern tonight, which the motorcycle gang did not know about: I have symptoms of giardiasis, i.e. diarrhea, i.e. this hard body is full of it. The aqueduct manager at Jawbone Canyon junction told me the water had been brackish for three weeks and was not potable.  I remember drinking it a week ago when the MSR water filter failed and I had no chemical backup.  Even though that aqueduct water was supposed to have been treated with chlorine at the intake valves, maybe not all the cysts were killed and have been incubating in my guts.  Plan to get rid of MSR filter and treat water henceforth with iodine tablets.  Iodine affects the taste of cooked food but that should not be a problem now that I have no stove to cook food.  The problem with the MSR is that it failed me when I needed it most and it is too much work and takes up too much room and weight.  So every idea from the stock broker has been jinxed, even though of course I do not blame him personally. 

My left knee has been getting better thanks to doses of aspirin.  Developed a new blister on ball of right foot as a result of wearing liner socks which kept my feet cool but allowed too much slip.  Desert was hotter than ever today as summer advances.  Moments of shade were pleasant, such as a large bush, a concrete underpass, and the shadow of the 8-foot diameter white aqueduct pipe where it crosses Jawbone Canyon on elevated supports.  Diarrhea continues, have to leave tent now...

Day 74, Mon 6.14 Saw no one all day long.  A long walk up a sandy road, sun hot.  Took a few breaks in shadow of some Joshua trees, a kind of branching cactus, actually a member of the lily family.  Found water unexpectedly in the narrow mouth of Butterbredt Canyon.  It flowed and disappeared into dry sand. Didn't need it but was reminded that nature has hidden resources.  Did draw water from Butterbredt Spring.  It needed filtering, full of algae, pond choked with reeds, smelled like musty hay.  Would like to give MSR filter to Andrew Hall and use iodine tablets instead because of weight, volume and inevitable clogging.  I don't really mind fine suspended particles in drinking water if it tastes all right, not even a few strands of algae, as long as the organisms are inactive. No diarrhea today but a bloated feeling, mild stomach cramps and gurgling sounds.  Finished book by Colin Fletcher (The Thousand Mile Summer), disappointed by lack of details and annoyed by excessive similes and the absence of an integrating theme.  Unanswered but important questions: why did he go on his long hike? What benefits or changes resulted?  Crichton's literary style is more professional. Laid Fletcher's book down beside the trail.

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