1/3/2008 Profession by Isaac Asimov, a 1957 scifi story about a youth who yearns to be programmed for a profession like all of his peers. So what are my goals for this new year? To be programmed for a new project? I haven't reached my goal for the Old Project. Enlightenment has been my tantalizing, life long goal, not so easily achieved as merely hiking from Mexico to Canada. I resolve this year 2008 to continue my meditation practice. First steps first: starting with the physical body, meditation practice requires a steady, comfortable posture. To sit for long periods requires a different kind of body than one adapted for physical labor, be it hiking long distances or cultivating an arboretum. The body must become light to keep the mind steady and alert. Sleepiness results from eating too much food. Eating too much food results from mental agitation. Therefore stimulants of all kinds have to be avoided. For example, drinking coffee in the afternoon stimulates an irritable intolerance for even a small degree of hunger, resulting in a food binge which causes sleepiness and ruins evening practice. Another way to control overeating is not to hoard food overnight. This is the practice of Theravada Buddhist monks who depend entirely on what they collect for the day on each morning alms round. They are not allowed to keep any food overnight, whether cooked or uncooked (Rule 38 of the Food Chapter). The Buddha made this rule when he saw that monks were not interacting with the lay public. He saw that without a vital connection between monastics and laity the order would not survive and the public would not benefit from the teachings. In this respect the Buddhist monastic order is more socially engaged than the Catholic, although Catholic monks at least have the support of each other. (When I refer to "monks" I am usually referring to Theravada Buddhist monks).
Another stimulant to be avoided is mental browsing on a smorgasboard of internet world news. Keeping up with the state of the world is not really useful to my practice beyond a necessary minimum survival level of environment awareness. If there are tigers prowling in the bushes, of course I need to pay attention, but looking for tigers tends to find them! Skillful action requires paying attention but without getting carried away. These are the nine obstacles to practice listed in the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali: "disease, depression, doubt and carelessness and laziness and worldly mindedness, delusion, non-achievement of a stage and instability: remove by practice of one truth or principle."
1/4 More on new year resolves: I am resuming a vegetarian diet except for occasional meals shared with someone else if nothing suitable is available. I also renounce playing chess by myself which is, for me, a really addictive pastime, consuming entire days and nights. For example yesterday I played 66 games of Windows Vista Titans Chess. I played like Scheherazade starting one story after another, each game interesting but none of them completely final. I should rather be analyzing why it is that nothing is completely satisfactory. Internet presents such a wide window on the world, it should be enough of a pastime to explore the world even without the addiction of chess. However if someone offered to play me a game, I would accept that too. Maybe the underlying feeling of discontent is due in part to loneliness.
1/8 Tomorrow is my scheduled flight from Reno to Albuquerque. The three Asus Eee PC's and the fourth OLPC XO laptop are also in transit from Las Vegas to the Route 66 Hostel to catch up with me there. The recent snow storms here in Reno disabled wireless internet connection from the apartment rooms the past three days, therefore this update is coming from the apartment guest computer center. After walking over to the Senior Center this morning and enjoying a couple of bagels with coffee, an interesting paperback caught my eye on the free distribution shelf. I put it in my pocket and ended up wasting the whole day reading it start to finish: The Third Pandemic by Pierre Ouellette, a gripping novel about a mutated bacteria, scarily plausible. Now it is evening I haven't even begun to pack.
1/9 Reno Airport Terminal, my Gateway laptop in wireless mode using touchpad without a mouse. Touchpad control takes patience but it is a skill which can be learned. The main problem for me is my right ring finger crushed on the handlebar of my motorcycle at age 21. It tends to lock up at times stuck straight out. Waiting now for departure to SLC with ongoing connection to Albuquerque, viewing big jet airplanes beyond the plate glass window lumbering down the runway, silhouetted against a background of dirty bright snow. It's a relief to regain internet access on this laptop which proves that the recent problem with the Villager Apartments network was not the fault of this machine. A reference to taxes in the newspaper reminded me that I completely forgot to pay my estimated taxes due last January 15th. [Note: I was confused. I was thinking the current month was February] I did so online just now. I hope there will not be a penalty. [Note: the payment was mistakenly scheduled for February, later canceled and corrected to 1/18, three days late. Oh well.] It is just about impossible to keep on top of everything.
1/9 pm. Albuquerque, New Mexico. Arrived safely in spite of a delay in Salt Lake City due to late arrival of a plane coming from Montana. My cozy room at Route 66 Hostel has a steam radiator, a desk and an excellent wireless network connection. I realized that I forgot yet something else important: my estimated tax payment scheduled this morning was from my checking account, not from my savings account. Hopefully I just corrected this oversight before the collection date [note: was still confused about the date].
1/10 New telephone number with Albuquerque area code. The four back ordered computers finally arrived.
1/15 Unable to commit to an apartment lease in this extended city. Have visited five neighborhoods. "I run, cried the fox, in circles narrower, narrower still, across the desperate hollow, skirting the frantic hill, and shall till my brush hangs burning flame at the hunter's door continue this fatal returning to places that failed me before!" I did enjoy a (solitary) traditional breakfast burrito at Frontier Restaurant across from the UNM campus. And I did enjoy a (solitary) walk on the bosque trail along the Rio Grande river. The exercise stimulated my appetite and reminded me of other hikes and former daily contact with nature. A phone call to my Costa Rican immigration agent confirmed as expected that my residence application submitted a year ago is still in limbo. What does it matter now anyway? And why should this search for a place to live consume so much of my attention? If my goal is to practice meditation, why can't I just do it anywhere, every day? Live out of hotels like Howard Hughes, grateful for the wherewithal to stay off the street, or even resume homelessness under open skies in fair weather. Medical attention is a future issue but not really urgent yet. Some happy memories of Albuquerque brought me here but they were not memories of actually living here. When I first stayed at the Zen Center in nearby Jemez Springs, exuberantly healthy after my California hike in 1993, I felt ready for any adventure, and indeed what wonderful adventures were in store. Later I spent a couple of months (1997) on a hill at La Cueva above the Jemez canyon, and later (1999) rested at this same Route 66 Hostel after my successful thru-CDT hike, and later (2000) did a short hike from Grants to Silver City. I should not expect too much of a return visit to Andarivel. I have to remember that the purpose of my visit will be to encourage my godsons, not sink more roots (routes). I also need to lighten the baggage carried down from Reno in anticipation of a more permanent residence, dropping unnecessary items such as four strips of carpet or a wooden cutting board or two ceramic apple mugs. Fortunately Juan and Josue's laptops have been mailed leaving me with (only!) two more Asus and the 15" Gateway. My Wal-Mart suitcase has a convenient handle and wheels. It is becoming clear that I would like to return to the Sonoran desert around Ajo for the remainder of this winter season, even if I do not camp out (but who knows? I still have my tarp and down bag), then probably go up to Flagstaff when the weather warms in April. A visit to my godsons is also planned.
1/16 Spiraling back to Ajo, Arizona, US Airways flight 29 to Phoenix scheduled next week after the MLK holiday. Canceled a preliminary reservation to Tucson when I realized Ajo can be reached by county bus directly from Phoenix. Maybe I should stay over a few days in Phoenix to get a physical checkup before going down to Ajo.
1/17 Most of the time when I have been engaged in projects such as work or long distance hikes or landscaping Andarivel, I have been eager to continue the project each day. Even hermiting in the desert was conceived as a project. However since leaving Andarivel I have felt off balance, distracted, drifting. In my defense, I think it is normal to experience distress at the collapse of a world like Andarivel. It is normal to feel depressed for a time and I expect to bounce back eventually. I am reviewing my life project or mission statement. For the past few months I have been experimenting with living in a sheltered apartment in my native country instead of living as an expatriot overseas or as a homeless transient in the desert. There has been plenty of internet access. No doubt it has been interesting, but finally merely browsing internet does not really satisfy an existential need for confirmation of identity. What is missing is communication with someone else. One page always leads to another. Browsing is a passive activity, not a creative one (except for these updates to my web site). Another source of unease lately has been my physical health, the aches of cervical osteoarthritis, which was the proximate cause of my giving up work on Andarivel. Internet browsing or reading newspaper headlines is a type of discursive thinking ("worldly mindedness"), one of the known obstacles to spiritual practice. Idle pastimes such as playing over chess games do more harm than merely waste time, as they can lead to feelings of passivity and depression. I need to stay mindful of my goal, my project, my mission. Thus, for example, it might be helpful to maintain a Sadhana Log of time spent sitting in meditation practice. First thing in the morning, I should sit for a few minutes before touching the computer. Then all day long, whenever possible, I should stop moving, breathe deeply, and accumulate minutes of practice, just as I accumulated seven million steps on the trail to Canada, with faith that this quest is not a waste of time. Yesterday I was reminded of staying on my mission by a Morman missionary (a girl for a change, reminding me of my niece Kristyn) who intercepted me on the street. Although Morman beliefs don't fit into my frame of reference, I can appreciate how faith has a useful purpose. We all have beliefs about the world and our role to play in it. These beliefs define our identity and sustain us. However in the end our cherished beliefs about the world and our identity may be self limiting and painful. Attention to the breath is a humble practice but it is my chosen practice, better than playing over grandmaster chess games.
1/18 The Corus 2008 chess tournament is underway, and now thanks to YouTube, it is possible to see videos of the participants (such as Magnus Carlsen) as well as follow their moves. There was a standing minute of silence today when the death of Bobby Fischer was announced. Later I listened to Magnus answer a question about the importance of Fischer to his development. He said he tried to learn from his impressive style and he expressed sadness. Then he lapsed into a pensive mood until someone asked another question. I admire Magnus because of his talent and his modesty. He does not complain, rant or rave as Fischer used to do. Fischer's great genius was crippled by his fear of losing. He was so anxious to maintain his identity as a champion that he became afraid to play the game. Nowadays computers play chess even better than grandmasters but they do not worry about their identity, win or lose. Perfection in action is attention without self awareness. Thus it doesn't help to compare myself to others, except maybe to look to them for inspiration. Even maintaining my web site may be an ego building activity like writing a book of fiction. I think about Ramana Maharshi who never did anything of importance, just lived on the hill Arunachala for more than 50 years. "Being nobody, going nowhere".
1/20 I have learned that the five computers sent to Costa Rica are being held in San Jose by customs and someone (Ellyn) has to go and pick them up there. I am sorry these well intentioned gifts are causing so much trouble. I still have three computers with me (two Asus and one Gateway laptop) which I suppose I will have to carry down with me on my next visit (I will try to leave the larger Gateway somewhere until my return). These last days in Albuquerque have been cold. I have passed most of the time in my room browsing on internet. All of the household stuff brought down from Reno will be left behind at this hostel, maybe even some extra clothing, to make room for the computers. This small disappointment: the Asus Eee computers are incompatible with Geocities PageBuilder, therefore cannot be used to edit these andarivel.org blog pages. As a wireless browser the Asus works better and faster than the XO machines and Skype works on it too, but if I am going to be living out of a suitcase, I can't justify carrying both a 15" laptop and a 7" laptop everywhere, so I will give both of the 7" Asus away. One is promised to Daniel. The other one is Available for Someone.
1/22 In Albuquerque airport waiting for a US Airways flight to Phoenix, my Gateway in my lap running on battery power and without mouse. I called ahead to Valley Bus lines to reserve a seat on today's afternoon run from Phoenix Desert Sky Mall down to Ajo. Valley Bus confirmed by a return phone call to my cell phone in the Albuquerque city bus on the way to the airport. This kind of communication was not possible last time I stayed in the Sonoran desert. Yesterday I also enjoyed a long phone call with Jesus and Juan on Jesus's new cell phone, calling from my room via Skype. Juan said he wanted me to stay at least a month. I do not know what kind of internet access will be found in Ajo. My baggage has dwindled down to one suitcase plus carry on daypack (with 3 computers in it), however it is still a bit too much to tote around the desert looking for a campsite. I hope to find some kind of room or trailer in Ajo or Why. I watched the Corus chess matches in Holland this morning until I had to pull the plug; both of my favorite players Magnus Carlsen against Leko, and Kramnik against Topolov, were scattered and losing, in sync with my apparently aimless wandering. When I came downstairs early this morning to the hostel kitchen (since I have decided not to carry coffee with me any more), I found three European kids shivering outside on the porch, waiting more than an hour there for the office to open. I let them in the side door and made coffee for them, maybe the last time for awhile to play the role of host instead of guest.
1/23 Ajo, Arizona. Back to using computers in public libraries, as my Gateway laptop and printer were just mailed to my sister Janie for safekeeping, until my return from Costa Rica. My Costa Rica trip is booked from Tuesday, Feb 12 to Tuesday, March 11. In the next three weeks I am looking forward to visiting old stomping grounds in the Sonoran desert. Last night on arriving by county bus in Ajo after dark and seeing the no vacancy sign in the motel, I was resigned to sleeping under a bush but unexpectedly received an offer from a lady to spend the night (or longer) in a vacant quonset hut under construction. Buildings and businesses in Ajo have changed since my last visit five years ago, but I have already met three people known before. Even the lady who helped me is connected to my past: it turns out her sons met me one day while out exploring the desert below Why.
1/30 Ajo public library. The desert below Why is emptier than ever but the daunting intense cold nights have pushed me back to the shelter of the bare "O Unit" in Ajo. Meanwhile the Ajo Desert Senita Health Clinic has scheduled my long overdue "Welcome to Medicare" physical. What appeared to be a worrisome lump in my abdomen turned out to be the pulsating aortic blood vessel; a gradual loss of fat (presently 135 lbs) has been exposing more of the body's internal structure. In addition to the usual blood tests, planned exams include an occult blood test, an abdominal sonigram for aortic aneurysm and a chest xray for a persistent cough. Mulling over a new domain name to separate my personal pages from the Andarivel pages.
1/31 Separated this Most Recent News page from the Andarivel Main Page, but have not come up with a name yet for a separate account. Andarivel is too good. I am so close to Lukeville it would be a pity to miss the opportunity to see it once again after tending to the Clinic exams [note: it didn't work out]. I forgot how cold January nights in the desert can be, miss the warmth of the steam radiator in the Route 66 Hostel in Albuquerque. Noticing how the "I" thought with time and space definition takes over immediately on waking up from sleep. Focusing on the in-breath and out-breath like a swinging door, almost succeeds in suppressing the "I" thought sometimes. Reading Ayya Khema's book about the jhana states.
2/1 "Welcome to Medicare" physical begins.
2/4 Ajo. Some unexpected bad news (occult blood loss and some blood tests out of range). Decided to return to Tucson for better communications and shelter from the cold. Flight plans and destination will be changed.
2/5 Repeated the blood tests with dramatic improvement. This leaves only the blood loss unexplained. The annual Tucson Gem Show obliged me to take a bus up to Phoenix to find an available hotel room.
2/6 Phoenix, ASU student library downtown. Scheduled a flight to Bangkok and back for medical diagnostics (or possible treatment) at the Bumrungrad International Hospital, leaving 2/8 before noon on USAIRWAYS to San Francisco, then EVA Air (Taiwan) to Taipei and Bangkok, arriving on 2/10 at 2:00 am (date is incremented when crossing the international date line in the Pacific Ocean). Return departure is for 5 March from Bangkok to Taipei to San Francisco to PHX, arriving 10:20 pm on 5 March (same date, to be confirmed). Plan to continue on to Costa Rica immediately.
2/12 Bangkok, Thailand. My colonoscopy exam at Bumrungrad Hospital was very successful, relieved a ton of anxiety. The last 16 days of my stay were spent quietly at the Boonkanjanaram Meditation Center near Pattaya, south of Bangkok, my second visit. Without any outside contacts my mind settled into a calm state.
3/6 A longish 5 hour US Airways (formerly known as US West Airlines) flight without meal service from Phoenix to San Jose. Arrived at night and my customs declaration filled out for the Asus computer brought for Daniel was simply ignored. I even told the agent I was bringing a computer. He just said impatiently, "Pase, pase" and waved all of us U.S. tourists through the gate. The old Hotel Gran Imperial in a seedy section of downtown San Jose has changed for the worse and an unexplained police raid the next morning at 5 am dragged all of us clients into the main lobby for an id check. Later I visited little Anthony Gonzalez Chavez in the Children´s Hospital recovering from broken ribs after being run over by a runaway ATV. Next day, arriving at the San Isidro bus terminal, Jesus and Juan met me with their gelled hair standing straight up, the latest fashion, and we took a taxi up to Andarivel together. The arboleda was a dismal sight, all overgrown with weeds, contrary to what they had been telling me for months. The deplorable condition reminded me of my return in 2005 after my first absence of one year when the caretaker had not done his job. Trees planted six months ago were stunted or dying for lack of sunlight, smothered by weeds. I decided to stay on for a few more weeks to clean up the place and plant about 60 more rainbow eucalyptus. Those beautiful fast growing tall trees have done very well. The first days of labor were quite a strain, even to climb up and down to the river, as my body was way out of condition. Even now, a month later (4/12), it is in better shape, but there is still constant muscle ache, treated with aspirin or just ignored. When my self-imposed clean up task is done, about a week from now, and I can leave Andarivel behind with happy memories as a farewell gift to Jesus and Juan, maybe I will finally take the time to get a medical exam in San Jose, although I do not expect much. Muscle fatigue may be simply a natural condition of "old age".
I have not been able to practice meditation at Andarivel because of too much attachment to it. I am learning by experience why monks are not supposed to own land. I have read about levels of peace and happiness attainable by meditation, called jhanas, the eight levels of absorption, surpassing any happiness depending on things of this world. Even a basic entry into these levels of absorption requires a calm mind relatively free of the five hindrances: desire, aversion, inertia, worries and doubt. In my quest for this interior "secret garden", I am inspired by the Buddha´s own example of renunciation of the comforts of his princely life
4/12 San Isidro. I am spending this weekend in town instead of hosting anyone at Andarivel. Taking an internet break, uploading some photos of Reno and the Sonoran desert at Why, Arizona, and my Thai meditation retreat. If interested, see them at my
google picasa website (too much trouble to upload them to yahoo). My 2007 tax return was recently filed online with the help of TurboTax which I can recommend.
4/20 San Isidro. My Andarivel renovation is finally done after seven weeks of dedicated labor with regard to the three most important issues: cleanup, planting sixty colorados, and construction of a new shelter next to the sala on the upper level. I am calling it the "circo" (circus) because of the high six-meter flagpoles. It could serve as a kitchen and dining hall on the upper level or as a meeting area with a view of the almendro complex, or simply for yard tool storage. The tamarind seeds that I brought from Thailand and planted in little flower pots three weeks ago are germinating. Recently I renewed contact with Fabian and with Cristian together with his girlfriend of four years Tatiana.
5/02 San Isidro. Still lingering on making finishing touches, planting a few more trees (4 manzana de agua, 10 nispero, 20 colorado) or replacing trees that did not make it. Have not seen much of my godsons. My neighbor Jose Gonzalez Cordero has agreed to work with me one day a week on Andarivel and will maintain it in my absence (instead of my depending on Jesus and Juan who come up less and less). I have learned that my Costa Rican residence application has been delayed more than a year because of a missing English-Spanish translation which was paid for but lost (or never done) by my agent (also fully paid). He has belatedly promised to find it and submit it. 49 recent April photos of Andarivel were just uploaded to picasa album 2008_04_New_Cocina. They include the circus tent and even the germinating baby tamarinds. Unfortunately, descriptive file names do not appear automatically as captions during the slide show, only under "more info" when each photo is selected individually. A medical appointment has been scheduled for next week in San Jose.
5/06 San Isidro on the way to San Jose tomorrow. A few photos of Andarivel_May6_2008 were taken this afternoon. Last week all but one of the remaining trees were planted, except for the delicate budding tamarinds. Both of the two amapolla species of hedge along the main road were also pruned and the cuttings were planted to form future hedge lines along the mandarino vista and along the river below the camp. The Trees of Andarivel Index was updated for this year: 413 total identified trees now (37 kinds of fruit and 25 kinds of timber). I am taking a long postponed break to visit San Jose to consult a geriatric specialist at El Cima hospital about my physical condition. Visiting Puerto Rico does not seem so attractive now that I learned about the income tax consequences for permanent residence there. It might still be a place to visit, but then there are mountain towns in Panama too. Or I might take a hop to Florida to look around for a home base. Florida is only three hours from Costa Rica versus a long five hours to Arizona. It has a mild climate and is income tax free like Nevada and Texas. Jesus and Juan came up last Sunday, it was good to see them again. I learned that Juan's mom has not been buying him books from the money deposited each month to his bank account, so have arranged with Jesus to use his account for both of them. Juan knows the amount set for him and they trust each other. When I meet Daniel on the road and ask him "What´s up?" he just says "Nothing". One person interested in being with me is Anthony, now recovered from his accident. He tags along to help his dad Jose Gonzalez on Tuesday mornings before school.
5/08 Back in San Isidro from San Jose. My consultation with Dr. Carlos Alpizar at El Cima Hospital this morning was encouraging. We came up with a new idea to explain the fatigue. A lot of blood tests were taken. The CR missing residence translation was located but it is incomplete, omitting the interior pages. It is exasperating to deal with this issue and the negligence of my agent as I am not even sure I want to commit to CR residence if granted, however I persevere to keep the option open. As for my motives for staying on to complete details at Andarivel such as planting the tamarinds from Thailand or terracing the upper slopes for nisperos, my strong continuing desire is to create a beautiful world, but also postpone the stress of homeless wandering again. If I could only limit my hard physical activity to morning hours only, and limit thinking to appropriate spiritual themes, Andarivel could be a suitable meditational retreat like Boonkanjanaram was in Thailand. It is easy to calm the mind when there is nothing else to do.
5/13 San Isidro. Asked my attorney Roberto Portilla to translate the missing document. Got an injection of an expensive drug ($82) at the Miravalles Pharmacy (just try getting a shot at a drugstore in the United States!) The drug prescribed by Dr. Alpizar, Nebido, is supposed to raise low hormone levels to combat fatigue and depression. All the other usual blood tests taken last week were normal. Five seedling tamarinds were planted in Andarivel, two more are scheduled, and one was given to Ana and Jose. Their leafy branches remind me of a cascade of water drops splashing from a pool. In the cool of the night they fold their leaves like the guanacaste tree.
5/23 San Isidro. The completed translation was finally handed over to Costa Rican migration today. Muscle aches in the shoulder area have diminished since the injection. Jesus and his best friend Aron Zhong Knorl (pronounced like chohng konor) met me this afternoon to shop for a new computer for his upcoming birthday on June 1st. Meanwhile this morning I was successful in locating the parts of a complete computer station for Ana, Jose and their children, as well as landscape supplies for Andarivel, all of which will go up tomorrow morning by cargo taxi. A letter to my neighbors Gerhard and Kathy Krolow was sent referencing the Costa Rican Law of Forestry 7575, Article 33 and 34, which prohibits cutting trees within 10 meters of the river in urban areas. I asked them not to cut any more trees. A copy of this letter with the relevant parts of the Law will also be delivered to my new neighbors Allan and Billy directly across the river (renovated Brenes house and the renovated Cabinas Elimar) who may not be aware of the legal prohibition on cutting trees, or they may not care. After a heavy downpour of more than five inches last week with a dramatic rise in the river, Jose and his son Anthony spent a morning helping me pour concrete to patch up uncompleted gaps in the flood protection dike. Jose would not accept any payment except a bunch of bananas. My intended short visit here has stretched into almost three months of hard work but finally everything seems to be coming together.
5/28 San Isidro. Upgrading the ram memory on the computer of Jesus to give it to Ana and Jose. Jesus will be getting a new and more powerful one for his birthday. There were various reactions to my recent letter about cutting trees, ranging from mild to snarling. The craving to possess a piece of land exclusively for oneself can provoke a hostile reaction when it meets with the reality of sharing our place in this world with others. I remember the first time I got irate when some Ticos crossed "my" land by the river. I was not very civil to them that time. Now after eight years I think I understand the local customs better and I would react differently with more good will and less heartburn. There is nothing in this impermanent world that is worth clinging to. In any case, Rio Chirripo has risen considerably with recent heavy rains; it will not be fordable until next December.
6/02 San Isidro, after The Flood (44 photos). After my last post, a tropical depression rain began pouring and drizzling steadily for more than thirty hours. After I took the repaired computer on the morning bus back up to San Gerardo to Ana´s house and successfully installed it there with a printer, I hurried down to the river, concerned by the raging transformation seen while crossing the high suspension bridge. I had never seen it so high in eight years. Down at the Andarivel bottom the river was pouring over the restraining dike uprooting newly planted yucca and willow trees. However at least my high camp seemed to be out of reach of the plunging falls. While listening to the relentless grind of massive boulders tumbling along the river bed and feeling the vibration of the ground, distressed and tired I drifted into a light sleep. Suddenly I woke up to a most alarming sound of water sloshing my blanket. I jumped up in a panic, snatched my sleeping bag and saw cold, brown, choppy water swirling around my meditation platform. I could not believe my eyes. I turned to see a torrent of water coursing wildly down the inner part of my well groomed garden where no river was ever expected to run. I was trapped between the two arms of the river. I paced back and forth on a precarious island between the camp and the kitchen looking for an escape route but did not see any options except to throw myself into the inner torrent, extremely risky without a rope, or else wait on developments, or else if the river rose further, climb a large boulder to spend a cold, wet night. Just at that moment I saw a neighbor across the river in a blue rain slicker, Juan Elizondo, surveying the thundering damage to his trout canal. He waved at me and motioned me to get out of there, but I shrugged my shoulders, there was no way. About twenty minutes later as I watched the water rising to the level of the kitchen floor, suddenly the boots of five men appeared beyond the inner torrent. The Elizondo brothers had come down to rescue me. They tossed me a thick rope which I tied around my waist in a bowline knot to help wade cross the torrent. I thanked them and led them up to the main gate with an apology for not being able to offer them a cafecito as my kitchen was down below. One of them remarked woefully, "Your kitchen might be lost". As soon as they left I grabbed my camera and returned to the river. Meanwhile the inner torrent had heaped a pile of debris around an irrigation hose including a ten-foot log, over which I climbed back to my camp. It appeared that the river had reached its maximum level. Night was coming on and the rain was tapering off. I took a few photos until the battery most inopportunely gave out. Then Jose and his son Anthony came down to see the destruction. The next morning I took some more photos, then the next day a few more. Now in the aftermath the worst damage has been loss of soil. The river gouged a lagoon from what was once a shallow stream. It scoured the goldfish pond completely. It bent the metal posts on the restraining dike. It flattened many young trees, although I expect some of the trees to recover, those that were not uprooted completely. The screen of king river grass which used to line the bank has been crushed and polished as white as bones. It will grow back quickly in most places, longer over bare rock, but the open river is no longer hidden from view anywhere and the Andarivel interior is exposed to view from the other bank. There is no longer a feeling of being sheltered and protected. The river is telling me, "Wake up! Time to move on!". Looking beyond Andarivel, the entire region is in a state of disaster. Many buildings in Herradura on the Rio Blanco were destroyed. All of the bridges downstream below the junction of Rio Blanco and Rio Chirripo were destroyed. Today I crossed a collapsed 100 foot bridge at Rivas on foot. Public bus service will not be restored for weeks. The highway to San Jose is still closed by landslides. The highway south to Panama, however, is open, and I will be renewing my visa there. Meanwhile Jose and Ana will care of Andarivel in my absence. On another note, today I received a long awaited shipment of The Long Discourses of the Buddha., a treasure to study in Panama. Then by fortunate chance I met Jesus here at Internet Cafe Balcon. We walked around awhile, I bought him a shirt, and I reminded him to keep the five rules for his future happiness. I left my old Flagstaff, AZ green cap at the bodega for Juan who was always borrowing it. And I gave a parting godfather talk to Daniel a few days ago, counseling him to complete his education.
Home Page